I need a prop gun to be accepted into the 501st Legion as an official SandTrooper. At first I considered a small gun, probably just because it would be easier and cheaper than the larger ones. But then someone mentioned that when they troop with their small gun they have a bit of “gun envy” of the guys carrying around the big ol’ guns and I thought, “yeah, I’m gonna want to be one of those guys intimidating people with a huge gun.”

This post will chronicle the steps I took to build the gun. But first let me say that I’ve really enjoyed it! After sitting at a computer all day it’s been really rewarding to glue things together, put wood in my table vice, and hack at it with files and sandpaper, all-the-while listening to OMD or Geography in my headphones.

So here’s the goal (both for the gun and the trooper holding it):

Sandtrooper T21 Blaster Screen Reference
Sandtrooper T21 Blaster Screen Reference

The one in the picture above is called a “T21 Blaster” and is based on the WW1 Lewis Gun, minus the circular bullet magazine that mounts on top, plus some other little cosmetic things to make it more “spacey.” Read more about the original Lewis Gun from Wikipedia here.

Here’s an image from the web of the WW1-era Lewis Gun:

There are people who make the modified star wars ones from scratch and sell them. They are super impressive. They have working sights,  electronics components for sound and light, and lithium-ion batteries that plug into the wall to recharge. Price tag? $500. So I decided wood and PVC is cheap, right? I’ll build my own.

To start I read up on what other scratch-built T21 owners did. A super talented guy that goes by the name of “Panda Trooper” on the forums crafted a template to cut all the parts so I started with that. I would link to his content here but the forums on which its posted are locked down so that only members of the forum can access it. Ping me if interested and I get point you in the right direction.

Here’s a picture of the template printed out on many 8.5×11″ sheets of paper and taped together:

Panda Trooper's T21 Blaster Template Printed Out
Panda Trooper’s T21 Blaster Template Printed Out

Using a trick learned from old high school art classes I transferred the template designs onto the wood and plastic sheets. First step is to rub graphite all over the backside of the templates.

Prepping to transfer template to wood
Prepping to transfer template to wood

With graphite on the back of the template I simply flipped the template over and traced it to transfer the design:

Transferring the design onto the wood
Transferring the design onto the wood

As with probably all projects, having the right tools really makes a difference. I cut the pieces out using a hand jig saw. I wish I had a nice fancy scroll saw but I suppose the jig saw worked well enough.

The butt of the gun is made from a simple piece of pine shelving with two pieces of 1/4″ wood glued to the sides.

Gluing gun butt together
Gluing gun butt together

Clamped together to sit overnight to dry:

Clamp the three pieces of the gun butt together
Clamp the three pieces of the gun butt together

The following picture shows where the fun part began. I clamped the glued-together pieces into the vice and went to town filing out the curvature of the butt of the gun. I started out, naturally, with really rough-toothed files to eat away at the wood. Then I refined it with other files and sandpaper. This part would have been pretty tough without the table vice.

Filing and then sanding the wood
Filing and then sanding the wood

Here I’ve cut the PVC to length and am getting a sense for the overall look, length, and weight of the gun. It’s HEAVY. The PVC diameters I needed only came in a single gauge option at Home Depot. If I was to start over I’d see what I could do to find thinner PVC.

Sizing PVC gun barrel
Sizing PVC gun barrel

To replicate the taper that exists on the Lewis Gun I simply grabbed a random plastic cup from the kitchen and hacked it up. Later I glued it into place and took measures to clean up the transition from the cup to the grey PVC.

Using random cup from the kitchen for taper on barrel
Using random cup from the kitchen for taper on barrel

I used a variety of PVC connectors to replicate details on the barrel where it’s wider. I wanted the inside of the end of the barrel to taper so I cut up a cheap oil funnel I got at Home Depot.

Oil funnel serves to taper the inside of the end of the barrel
Oil funnel serves to taper the inside of the end of the barrel

These next pictures show the construction of the cooling fins (or whatever they’re called) that exist both on the Lewis Gun and the Star Wars T21 Blaster. The pieces were all cut out of 2mm styrene plastic I purchased at a hobby store.

Cooling fin bases
Cooling fin bases
Cooling Fin Pieces
Cooling Fin Pieces

Above you can see that I cut the pieces out roughly with the Xacto craft knife and then refined the shape with a sanding attachment on the dremel.

Finished cooling fins:

Finished cooling fins
Finished cooling fins

Here’s my first attempt at smoothing the transition between the cup and the narrower end of the barrel. I had read about others using bondo but I was intimidated by that since I had never used it before and I knew it required mixing two components, etc. So I tried wood filler.

(you can also sort-of see the oil funnel taper)

Trying wood filler to smooth the transition from cup to PVC
Trying wood filler to smooth the transition from cup to PVC

I sanded it down and it looked like it was going to work:

Looked like the wood filler would work
Looked like the wood filler would work

But… close up and after a shot of paint primer you can see the wood filler definitely did NOT work.

Wood filler did not work
Wood filler did not work

I scraped off the wood filler, bought some bondo, and slapped it on. Not too bad.

Applying bondo
Applying bondo
Bondo sanded
Bondo sanded

Here I’ve begun working on the ribbing that Star Wars added to the Lewis Gun. This is just 4″ irrigation tubing from Home Depot. Unfortunately they only sell it in 10′ sections, when all I needed was about a foot of it.

The barrel is less than 4″ diameter so I have to cut some out of it to fit it to size.

Cutting the irrigation tubing to size for barrel ribbing
Cutting the irrigation tubing to size for barrel ribbing

Then I secured the tubing to the barrel using ties. The heads of the ties will be on the bottom of the gun so they won’t be very  noticeable. I cut off the trailing ends of each one of course.

Securing the ribbing to the barrel with ties
Securing the ribbing to the barrel with ties

Here’s a shot of the finished “magazine tray” or whatever you call it that sits on top of the gun. I could have taken more pictures along the way but you get the idea. Cut some pieces out of wood, glued, sanded, etc. Then cut other pieces out of plastic, glued, and dremel-sanded to fit the wood.

(note the almost-finished stormtrooper helmet in the background!!)

Magazine tray
Magazine tray

And… last picture for part 1 — here I’m simply laying pieces down to test the fit. I can’t glue it all together yet because I’m waiting for the electronics components to come in the mail. When they do I’ll have to chisel out part of the side of the wooden part of the gun to install the trigger, fill over the parts I chiseled out (with the wood filler that failed the barrel!), then glue these pieces on top of that.

Testing fit of parts
Testing fit of parts

That’s it for now! Hopefully the electronics will be in early next week and I can finish this puppy up!

Continue on to Part 2 >